Agree with some above posters, Kyoto is excellent and my husband has had enough highballs to last a lifetime! If you want non-touristy, go to the smallest of the four main islands, Shikoku. It's about 3 hours from Osaka. I lived there for a year. I call it "rice paddy Japan" because other than the obvious, it is the quiet countryside Japanese life. It's beautiful there and they actually have a temple pilgrimage. There are 88 total spread all across the island.
Definitely eat some Ramen, a good legit bowl of Japanese Ramen is my favorite food of all time!